Friday, September 11, 2009 12:04 PM CDT
Yard and Garden: Plant bulbs in the fall and think spring
By Kathy Hummel, Master Gardener
Mark your calendar for Sept. 23 for the Coles County University of Illinois Extension Master Gardeners Fall Plant Sale.
It will be from 7 to 11 a.m. at the Farmers Market on the Charleston Square. You will find bulbs, ornamental grasses, water plants, native Illinois plants, perennials, native plants, gardening gloves and much more at reasonable prices.
Proceeds from the sale will be used for U of I Extension agriculture and natural resources programming in Coles County.
Think spring! Seven spring bulb questions
Seems hard to believe that it’s time to begin thinking about spring in September, but this is exactly the right time to plan for a glorious show of those spring bulbs. The Q and A below should take care of most of your questions.
1. When should I plant spring flowering bulbs?
Spring flowering bulbs can be planted anytime in the fall before the ground freezes. They must be planted in the fall rather than in the spring because they require a long period of cool temperatures to spark their growth process that causes them to flower. In our zone 5, planting can be done any time between September and November.
For best results, plant bulbs as soon as possible after you purchase them. Your bulbs need to establish strong root systems before the frosts of winter set in and the bulbs enter a new cycle in preparation for spring blooming.
2. What is the correct and easiest way to plant spring bulbs?
Planting bulbs in fall for spring bloom can be a bit of a chore, even if the results are well worth the effort. Plant bulbs at a depth that is three times their height. For example, if a daffodil bulb is approximately 2 inches tall, dig a hole 6 inches deep. And remember that if you plan to add mulch, factor it in to your planting depth.
Space large bulbs about 4 to 6 inches apart. This provides them with enough space to grow for two or three years before they need to be divided. Space crocuses and grape hyacinths about 2 to 3 inches apart and smaller bulbs 1 to 2 inches apart. Bulbs are much more effective when planted in masses rather than individually.
Rather than dig individual holes for each bulb, dig out the entire area that you want to plant. Dig it to the required depth of the largest bulb. If you have smaller bulbs, create little mounds of soil for them to sit on that will bring them up to the proper planting depth.
Place your bulbs in the dug-out area with the pointed end up and the flatter, usually larger end sitting at the bottom of the bed. Then add bulb food and refill the area with soil. Use a synthetic bulb food because it is less attractive to animals than bone meal, another commonly used fertilizer.
3. How can I prevent squirrels and other critters from eating my bulbs?
After you insert your bulbs into the hole you dug, fill it with soil to within 2 to 3 inches of the top. Cut a piece of chicken wire 1 inch larger on each side than the size of bulb bed. Bend the edges to create a shallow box top shape and set the chicken wire on top of your newly planted bulbs.
Push the 1-inch edges down into the soil. To complete the planting, add a 2- to 3-inch layer of mulch. It hides the chicken wire, further insulates the bulbs and gives the beds a finished look.
There are a few plants that deer and squirrels tend to pass by. I’ve had the most success with daffodils, but alliums, crocus, chinodoxa, scilla, grape hyacinths and snow drops are all pretty critter resistant. But if they get hungry enough, they’ll eat anything, even these varieties.
4. How should I store my bulbs until I am ready to plant them?
If you get into a situation where you can’t get your bulbs planted as soon as you would like, keep the bulbs in a cool, dry place, such as your garage or basement. Warmth and moisture will signal the bulbs to start growing. Check on them occasionally and plant them as soon as you can. Discard any that are moldy or soft.
5. What should I do with the foliage after the blooms have faded in the spring?
If you want flowers next year, you should treat the foliage with respect. Its job is to restore the bulb’s energy through photosynthesis to prepare for blooming next year, so don’t cut it back until it turns yellow. Do remove the spent flower but leave the stem intact.
After a while the foliage may begin to look a little rough, but keep it in place for at least eight weeks after the flower fades or until the foliage withers and dies back. One solution to camouflage the fading foliage is to interplant annuals or perennials in front of or amongst your bulbs, such as coneflowers, zinnias or asters which will gain height about the time the bulb foliage is beginning to appear unsightly.
This is also an excellent time to feed your bulbs. Use about a tablespoon or so of a well balanced fertilizer like 20-20-20 or triple 13 and sprinkle it around the base of the plants.
7. When can I transplant daffodils?
If you have daffodils in need of relocating, spring is a good time to transplant them. For the best results, wait about eight weeks after the blooms have faded to move your daffodils. Because the foliage is still visible, you will have no trouble finding them.
Just remember the name of the game here is to keep the leaves green as long as possible to recharge the bulb for next year’s flower. When you do move them, take care not to damage the bulb, and make sure that the bulb and foliage stay intact.
Then enjoy the drifts of early color in the spring.
If you have any horticulture questions, call the U of I Extension office at 345-7034. Volunteer Master Gardeners are in the office from 2 to 4 p.m. Monday and Thursday.
This column is based on information and materials at the University of Illinois Extension office, located at 707 Windsor Road, Suite A, Charleston, 61920; phone 345-7034; or Web site: www.extension.uiuc.edu/coles/.
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