Wednesday, May 26, 2004 10:38 AM CDT
Galapagos Islands: A meld of mysticism and stark reality
By Harry Reed
Darwin describing an iguana on Albermarle Island in he Galapagos chain: "Another hideous animal, colored orange, red and yellow, with spines along the back, and a facial expression that resulted in a singularly stupid appearance." (Voyaging)
Note to Mr. Darwin: The facial expression you described hasn't changed much from 1835 (when you explored) through February 2004.
While researching the Galapagos Islands aboard H.M.S. Beagle, Darwin was described this way: "He was Robinson Crusoe wandering through lands uninhabited by human beings, sleeping rough on bare volcanic rocks ... giant tortoises and outlandish lizards gave it (the land) an antediluvian air: The land that time forgot."
To repeat the apt phrase: "The land that time forgot."
British-born Darwin is known primarily for his theory of evolution and his book "On the Origin of Species by Means of Natural Selection." How did he describe himself? "I Was Born a Naturalist."
Once known as the Enchanted Isles, the Galapagos to first time visitors are a meld of mysticism and stark reality. How's this for a "for instance:"
Penguins in the thoughts of a great majority of persons are linked only to the ice of Antarctica. Yet here they are, placidly lounging under a 95-degree equatorial sun in the Galapagos on hot sand and lava rocks.
Now, here's reality. How about the difficulty in traversing black sand beaches and lava rocks in order to reach a higher landscape level (especially since you've already reached a higher level — that of senior).
Getting off the ship's small boat and reaching the "stern and rockbound coast" as Maine's coast is poetically called, is euphemistically termed " a wet landing." (Some of the persons on that small boat bore no resemblance to Navy Seals in that disembarkation process.)
"Plant life is the basis of all life in the Galapagos, though it is often overshadowed by the animals found there," according to Marylee Stephenson in "The Galapagos Islands."
The author is right, unless the observer is such a dedicated dyed-in-the-wool botanist that he or she can ignore sea lions, land and sea-based iguanas, penguins, fur seals — and blue-footed boobies! Those are birds. (They also come with red feet).
And speaking of birds:
The couple with easy-to-reach binoculars throughout to trip was Don and Ferne Rogers of Charleston. Both are highly skilled in the art of bird watching and have the patience the hobby entails.
In Ecuador they counted 86 species, 66 of which were first timers of the pair, who are members of the Audubon Society, the American Birding Society, and the Illinois Ornithological Society. On the Galapagos 41 species were sighted.
Mammal life on the archipelago includes sea lions and fur seals. In the reptile family are the Galapagos tortoises, land and sea iguana, lava lizards and snakes. Among the seabirds are flightless cormorants, frigate birds, pelicans, herons and egrets. Cited among land birds are: Galapagos hawks, Darwin finches, barn and short eared owls, darkbilled cuckoos, martin's and mocking birds.
Estimates of the age of the islands range from two to five million years. In "Galapagos, The Untammed Isles," the author wrote about origin:
"..... what we do know is that every new island first emerged from the sea as red-hot lava. The Galapagos Islands are indeed one of the most volcanically active sites on earth."
Scientists say there were Pacific eruptions in 1979, 1982, 1984, 1987 and 1998. Even today, the same authors say, "the young volcanoes in the west, continuously blow steam into the air, smell of sulphur and threaten to erupt." And sometimes they do.
Darwin's visit in 1835 opened the gates for other scientists, naturalists, and colonizers. Abuse of the islands began long before that. Pirates used the locations of the isles as hideouts and sources of meat.
Those huge tortoises, up to 500 pounds, were easily taken and were stacked in the holds of the ships. There they would survive for a year, and without food or water. On ensuing voyages, the tortoises were slaughtered for fresh meat.
Animal numbers began to shrink from depradations not only from pirates but also from crews of commercial vessels. In "Galapagos, Islands in Time," author Tui De Roy Moore, describes the advent of feral animals dumped ashore by sailors. Moore writes:
"(I)n many places goats, donkeys, horses or cattle had stripped the vegetation and sometimes trampled the tortoise nests. Some of these islands had dogs and pigs and almost all had feral house cats and these carnivores attacked and destroyed some tortoise populations. Land iguana were exterminated on certain islands .... "
In 1959, Moore writes, the Charles Darwin Foundation was formed "to coordinate efforts to protect the islands." Later, the National Park Administration was organized and joined the fight to bring conservation practices to the archipelago.
In "Galapagos, A Natural History," Michael H. Jackson cites excerpts from National Park rules:
No plants, animals or remains of them ... should be removed or disturbed,
Do not take any food to the uninhabited islands. (Insects or other organisms associated with food might be dangerous to the fragile ecosystems),
Animals may not be touched or handled (animals will lose their remarkable tameness if handled),
Animals may not be fed,
Litter of all kinds must be kept out of the islands,
Do not buy souvenirs or objects made from plants or animals of the islands.
Later in his book, Jackson puts a succinct face on the rules:
".... Don't take anything from the islands that belong there, take only photographs, and leave only your footprints."
And about the wildlife:
Want to kneel in the sand and go eyeball with a three to four-foot ugly iguana? Help yourself. Nothing will happen. That is until the iguana gets bored and either goes to sleep or moves a few feet further along the beach.
Adult and baby sea lions doze on sun-swept rocks in utter disregard of The Bank Voyagers. Showing the same disregard are fur seals as they flop along on their slow way to somewhere.
What it means it that the Galapagos wildlife is unafraid of human visitors. Or, as "The Untammed Isles" state:
"The enchantment (of the islands) lies in the extreme approachability and tameness of the wildlife."
In connection with wildlife, the tour of the Galapagos closed on a disappointing note through no fault of the organizers:
The visit was put together on a ‘best for last' basis with a visit to the location of the 500-pound tortoises. That visit wasn't made when fishermen occupied park offices and the Darwin Research Station while demanding repeal of certain regulations.
A compromise was reached, according to an article in the St. Louis Post Dispatch, and the fishermen gave up their occupation shortly after The Bank Voyagers returned home.
Literature from the Charles Darwin Foundation sums up:
"The biological isolation of the Galapagos Islands, combined with their volcanic formations, rock shores and the confluence of warm and cold currents have led to an amazing variety of habitats and species ... This living laboratory (is) one of our planet's greatest treasures.... The unique relationship between the Galapagos National Park Service and the Charles Darwin Foundation is key to the archipelago's long term protection and restoration."
Thirteen major islands, six smaller islands, and a large number of islets make up the archipelago, an equator-straddling province of Ecuador. In 1979 the islands were declared a World Heritage Site by members of UNESCO. Later, the island coasts and the 15 mile nautical band were declared a Marine Reserve Resources Reserve by President Febres-Cordero.
The islands were discovered, at least officially, in 1535 by the Bishop of Panama when his ship was becalmed and then borne along by ocean currents. That was almost four and three-quarters centuries ago. Today:
The registered resident population of the islands is approximately 21,000, according to Roslyn Cameron, Charles Darwin Research Station.
Three large towns are located on the archipelago:
Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz Island, population about 10,000; Pto Baquerizo Moreno/San Cristobal, 4,000 residents; Villamil/Isabela, 2,000 residents; Floreana, approximately 100; Balta military base, 100. MS. Cameron also cited small rural communities on Santa Cruz.
In "Galapagos" Jackson lists occupations on the islands as cattle ranching, agriculture and fishing, and those that are tourism-connected. And these are likely to be significant, since approximately 80,000 tourists visit each year.
And were do they visit?
"The land that time forgot."
Read of Charleston is a former newspaper reporter and retired public relations official from Eastern Illinois University.
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